A RARE LATE 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND AND ENAMEL LOCKET PENDANT LAPEL WATCH, CIRCA 1890

Probably Swiss

Modelled as a stylised beetle, of manual wind movement with key, circular white enamel dial with...

A RARE LATE 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND AND ENAMEL LOCKET PENDANT LAPEL WATCH, CIRCA 1890

Probably Swiss

Modelled as a stylised beetle, of manual wind movement with key, circular white enamel dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands, concealed beneath hinged red guilloché enamel wings with black stripes highlighted with rose-cut diamond accents and similarly-cut diamond eyes, textured gold with further black enamel on the bezel with foliate engraving, the thorax opening to reveal a glazed compartment, the reverse naturalistically chased and engraved with insect's abdomen and legs suspended from a bar brooch of similar style, mounted in gold, movement unsigned, length including bar brooch: 5.4cm

A Private Collection (lot 79 to 106) from a Distinguished Private Collector

The present beetle-form pendant watch captures the late 19th-century and early 20th-century fascination with the marriage of natural form and mechanical fantasy, and were highly fashionable in China. Emerging from the ateliers of Geneva and Paris, it embodies the inventive spirit and refined whimsy of the time.

Beetle-form pendants and brooches were among the most imaginative expressions of this trend, crafted by a number of celebrated makers. The finest examples, such as the present lot, combine exquisite jewellery workmanship with the intrigue of hidden horology. The case is richly decorated with enamel and precious stones, while the abdomen and legs are chased and engraved with remarkable naturalism. A discreet pusher at the tip of the insect releases the wings, to reveal a small white enamel dial beneath.

 

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