A LATE 19TH CENTURY RIVIÈRE NECKLACE, CIRCA 1880

Composed of a single row of graduated oval-shaped amethysts, each within claw-setting and open-back, to a cushion-shaped amethyst clasp within...

A LATE 19TH CENTURY RIVIÈRE NECKLACE, CIRCA 1880

Composed of a single row of graduated oval-shaped amethysts, each within claw-setting and open-back, to a cushion-shaped amethyst clasp within closed-back setting, mounted in 9K gold, amethysts (excluding amethyst clasp) approximately 238.00cts total, length 42cm

 

The rivière necklace is a design of enduring elegance and remarkable versatility. Without ever losing the essence of its style, the rivière has continually evolved to reflect changing tastes since its inception. Such necklaces were crafted with either linear or graduated stones, often set with amethysts, citrines, or topazes, arranged in a continuous row and linked together as seamlessly as possible. This single, unbroken line of gemstones catches and scatters the light, creating an effect akin to sunlight shimmering across the surface of a river. It is this dynamic play of light that gave rise to the idea of the rivière as a true ‘river of light’.

Anna Wintour, the longstanding editor-in-chief of American Vogue, is one of the most influential figures in fashion, and her personal style has become almost as recognisable as her editorial vision. She is frequently seen wearing rivière necklaces, often layered, and set with vivid coloured gemstones, among them amethysts. Wintour is said to have found one of her favourite necklaces at the British jeweller S.J. Phillips Ltd., described as being composed of Georgian gemstones. The style has also been embraced by Sarah Jessica Parker, who wore multiple layered rivières at the New York premiere of And Just Like That.

Prized for their rich violet hue, amethysts have long been associated with clarity, balance, and protection, while their regal colouring lends them an air of sophistication. Their saturated tones catch the light with a velvety depth, giving a rivière necklace both presence and refinement.

The elegance of the rivière gives it a timeless appeal that transcends any single moment in the history of jewellery design, ensuring its continued relevance as a statement piece today. That enduring legacy is reflected in its very form: the unbroken strand of gemstones suggests continuity, permanence, and a notion of style that does not fade with fashion.

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